First Magnitude Florida

Week Wachee forms a part of the spirit of Hernando County residents. It is where my mother learned to swim, where I experienced my first sunburn as a child, and where countless other boys and girls marveled at manatees, watched mullet jump, splashed away the summer heat, and boated out to the marshes of the Gulf.

Weeki Wachee river and spring is different from what it used to be. This reality may tug at the heartstrings of any Floridan who has watched their favorite river slowly deteriorate over the years. Today, the river is extremely crowded, scars from boat propellers are visible along the seagrass and manatees alike, and sand from eroded banks smother aquatic vegetation.

This is not to say it is not still strikingly beautiful. The river constantly dances back and forth, winding its way slowly but steadily towards the salty Gulf. The continuously gushing fresh water will quietly, powerfully discourage any attempted intrusions upstream; strong paddling and perseverance are required. The shallow river bed is mostly white with sand, a backdrop accentuating the mullet and manatees smoothly gliding just above. The water is clear and cold; inviting and shocking.

For better or worse, this scenery has caused overcrowding of the river. On a typical weekend, bank to bank will be jammed with motor boats, kayaks, swimmers, and sandbar drinkers.

Mentioning a planned outing to Weeki Wachee will be met with warnings describing the overcrowded mess that the river has become. My journey up the river on an early Sunday morning was made that much more special, after such warnings, when I did not encounter more than three or four fellow river-goers.

I had the place to myself.

My trip upstream brought a fragile peace. At moments, there I was in the wild: therapeutically alone. At a small spring along a bend, I pulled the kayak to the side and dove into the cold water. The shock of the cold and diving towards a dark, deep mass quickly shook fear into my peace. Then I wondered: were the Native Americans afraid to be alone out here? Or is it just my pampered, sissy self? Regardless, being utterly alone was suddenly less comforting, and there erupted a strong yearning to return to my kayak.

At other times, scenes of party houses with sleepy, hungover guests eroded the beauty of the river. In contrast to wooded bends and mossy canopies, the docked boats and plastic slides seemed like an unjust abuse to the river. A place like this didn’t just seem to exist to provide a place to drink, or to build a house. A place like this seems to lend itself to visitors, to come and to go, but not to permanent residents altering its framing and makeup, at the same time dispelling the original settlers who call this “habitat”. A place like this should be filled with wildlife, trees, flowers… habitat. To visit, experience, interact with, learn from.

To enjoy. And then, to leave alone.

Structures now crowd the banks in lieu of birds and gators, septic sewage is now part of the molecular composition of the river. Weeki Wachee’s beauty has created fond memories in the hearts of Hernando County residents, but it’s beauty has also led to abuse by those same residents and others.

The Weeki Wachee is still, and will continue to be, a beautiful piece of Florida. It is worth visiting, early in the morning if you would like some privacy, or on a summer afternoon if you’re looking for a different type of fun. However, what I saw during peak hour seemed like an affront to something sacred, so any return visits for me will be in the off season.

Florida Spring Council’s 2021-2022 funding report, Weeki Wachee.

The Mermaid Show at Weeki Wachee Springs

A pure and uplifting use of the spring comes in the form of a story, a story of true love. Love conquers all, and there is a prince or princess out there for everyone willing to look. The Mermaid Show at Weeki Wachee is an unapologetically simple, beautifully orchestrated and performed, truly unique rendition of the classic tale of The Little Mermaid.

Young actresses and actors create the magical experience and pure message of love to crowded rooms of girls and boys throughout the year. Without changing the script since I myself was a child, the uplifting performance with the Florida beautiful backdrop of the deep spring is an experience not easily matched. Special thanks goes to Kristy Madden, star of the show, who provide VIP tickets for my mom and I, and also some exclusive photographs of the performance:

Practical Information:

To visit the Weeki Wachee river, go early to be able to best experience the river for its natural splendor. Park at Roger Park all day for just $5, and launch your personal craft to head upstream towards the beautiful twists and turns. Round trip is about 12 miles, moderately strenuous on a kayak, but doable and great exercise. If renting, the best place (although not the cheapest, but worth it) is to go to the source – the Weeki Wachee Springs State Park. Reserve a kayak at least a week in advance during during the summer (best aim for 2 weeks). Single kayaks are $40 and tandems are $60. You will be given a nice vessel, pointed downstream, and guided leisurely along the clear waters by the constant current. The Mermaid Show can be seen by visiting Weeki Wachee State Park ($13 entrance fee for adults), with three performances daily, 365 days a year.